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Introduction
Until a couple of years ago, the answer to “which line are you using?”
was simple – virtually everyone used one of the various brands of
monofilament line. Now however, the choices have expanded significantly:
mono is still quite viable, the new spectra-super braid-super lines have
some wonderful properties, fluorocarbon lines are almost invisible in
the water, and hybrid lines that usually involve a coating or combo of
polymerized line yield a ‘best of’ properties. So which do you choose?
There are pros and cons to each.
Line manufacturers
have invested heavily in developing new fishing lines that are better,
stronger, and almost invisible in water. Fishing line has become a
marketer’s delight. There are numerous lines available, many with unique
features, however some of them are merely Madison Avenue hype. While we
mention several brand names in this section, when you go to your tackle
store you may see new ones and may not find some of those mentioned
here. So be prepared to experiment.
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Quick Choice Recommendations - Even
though choosing the right fishing line today has become more complex
than ever, monofilament lines are still the favorite among the majority
of anglers.
Drift Fishing Line Recommendation - The clear choice
of Steelhead and Salmon anglers for many years has been
Maxima Ultragreen. It delivers excellent performance, is
easy to use, has consistent reliability, and is relatively
invisible under water. You can use this line both for your main
line and as a leader.
Steelhead line - 10-12# for main line and 8-10# for
leaders
Salmon line - 15-30# for main line and 15-30#
for leader
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Leader Line Recommendation - I have tried numerous
brands from the inexpensive to the top end stuff. I eventually settled
with P-Line for most of my fishing, and I’ve been
happy with this brand for sometime. For leaders I
have been using 8# and 10# P-line Floroclear line for
Steelhead leaders exclusively for the past two years. For Salmon
fishing I have been using 20# Floroclear.
Float Fishing Line Recommendation - I suggest one of the
high visibility braided lines like, Tuf Line XP, for
your main line because it floats, is easy to cast, and has no line
stretch. Try 20-30# test Tuf Line, Power Pro, or Fireline for your
main line and the same leaders mentioned above. Please remember that
you need to use special
knots for these
lines.
Salt
Water and Heavy Line Applications - Many mono lines work
well in both fresh and saltwater. The lines of choice for these
applciations is either Izorline or Trilene Big Game line.
Cost
- Expect to pay $8-$25 or more for 125-300 yard spools. Mono lines are
generally less expensive than the hybrid and braided lines. Many
companies offer larger spools of line, 1,000-3,000 yards or more, but I
prefer to buy the smaller quantities for freshness even though if stored
properly, most lines today have an almost indefinite shelf life.
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Five Major Categories of Fishing Line
Over the past few years we have seen significant growth in the number of
line choices. Following is a brief discussion of the major choices
available today.
1. Traditional
monofilament lines
2. New “super” braided lines
3. Hybrid & Copolymer lines
4. Fluorocarbon lines
5. Leaders
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1.
Monofilament Lines - For decades this has been the line of
choice and is the bread and butter of fishing lines. In the late
1950’s Dupont made the first nylon based monofilament fishing lines
for Stren and since then new formulations and new companies have
entered the field and have created variations that come in a variety
of colors, sizes and strengths. Monofilament lines maintain good
knot strength, are usually cheaper than other types of lines, and
work well in a variety of fishing conditions. It is designed to be
limp and soft, and it casts easily on both casting and spinning
reels. It’s inexpensive, reliable, and can be purchased with just
about every variation you could want. Its major weaknesses include
less abrasion resistance, some have line memory, and they have a
thicker diameter than other alternatives |
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Monofilament line
stretches, which can be bad or good. Stretch makes line more forgiving
when a big fish makes a strong run, but it also makes it harder to set
the hook. The amount of stretch can be controlled by the additives but
all monofilament will stretch some.
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2.
Braided Lines – These lines are noted for their strength,
the very small diameter, their non-stretch characteristic, and their
abrasion resistance. It can be up to four times smaller in diameter
than mono lines of the same line strength. Anglers seem to either
love it or you hate it. Most anglers that spurn braided lines have
had bad experiences with casting, or damage caused to their rod
components. The newest braided lines sport new weave processes and
state of the art coatings which increase the rewards that come with
utilizing braids, while drastically reducing some the drawbacks. |
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Many fishermen
have found these lines excellent for both float fishing, because the
line floats, and for plug fishing in conditions when you have lots of
line out. Because of the no-stretch characteristics, you can get a
quicker hook set, and because the lines are very strong, you get fewer
break-offs.
Along with all of
the great new features goes some less friendly characteristics. Because
the lines are very narrow in diameter and have slippery surfaces, they
have a tendency to interleave when wound tightly on your reel. The
result can be horrendous backlashes where the only viable solution is to
cut them out.
Further these
lines have a tendency to twist. It is not uncommon to have the line wrap
around your rod tip, and if you happen to pull at the wrong time, you
could be replacing your fishing rod. Finally, because there is virtually
no stretch in the line, you need to be more careful with setting the
hook and then playing your fish. You need to be more careful with your
drag settings on your reel in order to effective use these lines.
Finally, you will
need to use special knots for these lines. Because the line surface is
slippery, common improved clinch, Trilene knots, etc will not hold. See
our discussion on knots,
here.
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3. Hybrid
& Copolymer Lines: Copolymer is a product of
copolymerization, which is a chemical reaction in which two or more
molecules combine to form a larger molecule that contains repeating
structural units, or in other words the combination of two or more
monomers to create a copolymer. The outcome of this process results
in a material that has many more benefits than a solo substance. The
copolymer fishing line becomes more abrasion resistant, have a lower
stretch factor, higher tensile strength, higher impact and greater
shock resistance, and much more. |
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I’ve found that
several of the lines, (P-Line copolymer, Floroclear especially), have
quickly become my favorites. These lines offer less stretch than mono
counterparts, and more than the no-stretch braided liens. Further, knot
strength is good with traditional knots. Next, I have found these lines
to be more abrasion resistant than the mono lines, and finally, the
flouro coatings are as effective as the pure fluorocarbon lines.
4.
Fluorocarbon lines - When you immerse a fluorocarbon line in
water, it blends in so well that it's almost impossible to see with the
naked eye. And if the fish can't see it, they are far less likely to
spook and more apt to strike. These lines have almost the same
refractive index as water so it's practically undetectable to fish, (the
line reflects light the same as water, blending with surrounding water
instead of standing out.). Most have high tensile strength, excellent
abrasion & UV ray resistance, and very low stretch. Another added
feature is its minimal water absorption, creating a stronger fishing
line, in or out of the water. It is a great choice to tackle the
toughest fishing conditions.
Fluorocarbon fishing line has grown in acceptance over the past 2-3
years. There are 3-4 major manufacturers now offering 100% fluorocarbon
fishing lines in a variety of line strengths and sizes. These lines are
relatively more expensive when compared to traditional monofilaments,
but most fishermen think they are worth it.
Fluorocarbon has
been offered for years as a leader material because of these properties,
but recent improvements in the processing have enabled makers to
manufacture it with enough flexibility to be used solely as fishing
line.
5. Leaders
– Unlike fly fishing where leaders have a specialized designs,
most Steelhead and Salmon fishermen use a lighter version of one or more
main lines for their leaders. Seaguar, and several others, offered
specialized flouro-based leaders but with the more widespread
introduction of copolymer and less expensive mainline fluorocarbon based
lines, their competitive advantage has diminished. Salmon are less line
shy so a heavier leader is in order. Steelhead, on the other hand, are
more easily spooked so a lighter and more invisible leader is in order.
Any of the lines mentioned in this section can be used for leaders, but
over the past couple of years I have been using P-Line Floroclear in
either 8# or 10# test for my Steelhead fishing. See our discussion on
length recommendations and rigging your leaders
here.
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Line Characteristics Considerations
Here are several considerations to take into account when choosing your
next fishing line
Line
Strength – Be sure to match your line to the rod & reel you are
using, the fish you are targeting, and the fishing conditions you expect
to encounter. All rods come with a recommended line weight that should
be followed. An exception is braided line, where you may want to match
it’s diameter to the recommendeded monofilament equivalent – see chart
below. Further your reel will indicate different line capacity for
various weight lines. Next I always try to use a line strong enough to
effectively and quickly be able to bring a fish to net/hand. Especially
if you are going to release some/all of your catch, you want to be able
to bring them in quickly so as not to wear them out to much. And
finally, if you are going to be fishing in rocky, snag filled waters,
you want to make sure that your line is extra abrasion resistant.
For most Steelhead
fishing, a line weight of 10-15# will be more than adequate, with
slightly heavier line for plug fishing. For Salmon fishing, line weight
in the 15-30# range is common practice.
Finally, always
use a leader that has less strength than your main line. When the
inevitable snag happens and you have to break it off, you will only lose
a small amount of leader, and leave less in the river.
Line
Stretch - Line stretch has been a matter of personal choice for
several decades. The mono line manufacturers have offered variations
from low stretch to others than can extend by as much as 25-30%. Further
with the introduction of the braided lines we now have the option to
choose a no-stretch line. Line stretch is an effective shock absorber
during the hook-set and when a fish makes a rapid change in direction.
Some fishermen argue that having a little stretch in their line also
results in less tearing of the fish’s lip, so the hook is more less
likely to fall out. Others argue that a no stretch line gives you more
direct contact with the fish and thus more control. So you have a choice
in this regard for your own personal preference.
Monofilament can
stretch as much as 25%. For example on a 20 yard cast, the stretch can
be as much as 5 yards. This figure sounds unbelievable but tests and
research will back this statement. The negative result of line stretch
is greatly reduced power on hook-sets.
Braided lines have
a near zero stretch even when wet. This will result in most power at the
point you need it most, the hook. In return, you will be able to land a
much great percentage of the fish that strike your bait.
The hybrid lines
seem to strike a balance between the very stretchy mono lines and the
no-stretch braided lines. I find this a very appealing characteristic.
Abrasion
Resistance – A very important characteristic that I require in
fishing line is abrasion resistance. The first thing river anglers look
for in fishing line is abrasion resistance. Many trophy Steelhead and
Salmon escape by breaking or weakening the line on their teeth, rocks,
or other obstructions in the water. Frequently check your line for nicks
or frazzles or areas of abrasion that will cause a weakness.
When fighting a
decent fish, in fresh or saltwater, three things can happen: (1) the
fish goes deep, pulling the line across rocks, logs or other hard
objects, (2) the fish is big and the line will rub across its body or
tail, and (3) other things, such as the boat, a jetty, surface objects
or dock, or even other fish in the area, may bump into your line. All
three factors will cause abrasion, eventually prompting the line to
break. After every fishing trip, or after playing out a nice fish, cut
off approximately ten feet of line and retie, if you have reason to
believe it may have been frayed. Please put that expended line in your
pocket to dispose of properly at home rather than leaving it by the
river side.
Line Color – Most manufacturers offer several color
options. Many offer line with no visibility, ie clear or light green,
and others with increasing visibility, ie blue, Pink, Gun Metal, to very
visible Hi-viz yellow, and day-glow chartreuse. Choice of line colors is
mostly a personal preference guided in part by the type of fishing you
are doing. Many fishermen want to see their line when they are plug
fishing or float fishing so choose one of the highly colored options. By
seeing you line more easily you can have greater control over it. On the
other hand if you are drift fishing, side drifting or boondoggin, you
may want to choose a line with little or no visibility, as the fish may
be spooked by seeing your line in the water.
In any case you
should always choose a clear/invisible line for your leader. Steelhead
especially can be easily spooked by your line.
Floating
or Sinking Line – With the introduction of the braided lines,
you can now choose either floating or sinking lines. Generally a sinking
line is preferable in most cases except for float fishing and drift
fishing from the bank on large rivers where you have a lot of line in
the water.
Most mono lines
readily sink and will permit you to keep your line low in the water
where the Steelhead and Salmon are located.
Floating lines are
especially helpful when you are float fishing because you can mend them
much like the fly fishing technique to give you a longer natural drift.
This also applies to drift fishing large rivers when you will have a lot
of line in the water.
Knot
Strength/Performance – Not all lines perform the same when tied
into a knot. Further the new braided lines require special knots to be
used effectively. Because a knot inherently twist and adds stress to a
piece of line, it creates a weak point. Most of the lines offered today
will give you 80-95% of the strength of the line itself. See our
discussion on knots
here. Further be aware that some knot have a tendency to loosen over
time so should be checked frequently. Finally, understand that most mono
and copolymer lines are the more forgiving and offer the better knot
performance than the braided/super lines.
Line
Diameter – Obviously the diameter of a line affects its
strength. But it also affects casting distance, how deep your line will
travel in the water, and its visibility. Generally speaking the smaller
diameter the line is the better but the smallest diameter lines tend to
create more backlashes.
When selecting
braided lines, it is best to choose a line of similar diameter (not
test) to mono lines, especially for a new super line user. As you get
more familiar with the performance of braided lines, you may want to
choose a smaller diameter for longer casts and less current drift, but
it is still recommend that you use a line of higher strength than
monofilament in any particular fishing application.
Braided to Mono Line Comparison
Line Size Recommendations:
To Replace this
Monofilament Line
2 to 6 lb
6 to 8 lb
8 to 12 lb
12 to 20 lb |
Use this
Braided Line
10 lb
20 lb
30 lb
50 lb |
Line Memory/stiffness – Some lines are stiffer than
others and some retain some of the twist caused by storing it on your
reel. Generally you want to choose a line with the least amount of line
memory.
Line
Quality – Lines come in a wide variety of qualities. The more
expensive lines have better quality control and will be consistent in
strength, color and diameter. They will hold up longer on the spool and
in use. Sometimes, even though a manufacturer has an excellent
reputation, it can still suffer from quality control issues. A good
example is Berkley who introduced a fluorocarbon line a few years ago
names Vanish. This line proved to have quite inconsistent quality, with
some sections quite good and others, with a very low breaking strength.
Line quality can
actually vary even coming from the same spool. It is always best to
check your line as you spool it onto your reel.
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General Tips – Here are some general tips
regarding Salmon and Steelhead fishing lines
- Use scissors or
clippers not your teeth. I promise you that your Dentist will
appreciate this tip. More than one angler has had his day of fishing
cut short with a chipped or broken tooth caused by trying to bite off
the tip of his line.
- Because braided
lines have little/no stretch, you may want to wait just a moment
longer to set the hook than you would if you were using mono lines.
- Change line
frequently. Your line can develop small nicks and be affected by the
elements or from strange substances found in your tuck bed. You dont
want to miss the fish of a lifetime with a broken line. To save a few
dollars, consider replacing the final 75-100 yards on line on your
reel.
- Have spare line
available when you are fishing. You don’t want to prematurely end a
day of fishing because of multiple break-offs or by getting spooled by
a runaway fish.
- Check for nicks
in your line several times throughout the day
- Recycle - When
you have completely worn out the braided line on your spool, try
taking it off the and spooling it back on your reel backwards.
- Monofilament
can be damaged by excess exposure to direct sunlight. Keep your
equipment in a dry, shaded area. Fishing on a hot summer day is fine.
Keeping your rods in a hot car trunk, or exposed to direct sunlight in
the back seat, is not recommended.
- Store all bulk
line in a cool, dark place. Direct sunlight will damage monofilament
over a period of time.
- Monofilament
will twist. If it happens while fishing from a boat, play the line out
with nothing on the end, trolling behind the boat for about five
minutes. It is also important to always use a ball-bearing swivel,
which will reduce or eliminate line twist.
- If you fish a
lot and regularly change your line you might want to consider buying
line in bulk, ie 1,000-3,000 yard spools. The savings can be
substantial.
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Line Manufacturers
Here is a list of line manufacturers and brands that are commonly used
for Steelhead and Salmon fishing. Please remember that new lines a
coming out frequently and some on this list may not be available in your
local tackle store, so be knowledgeable when you go to purchase new
line.
Berkley –
Trilene, Fireline, Iron Silk, Big Game, more
Maxima –
Ultragreen, Chameleon, Clear, more
Sufix – DNA,
Tritanium, more
Power Pro –
P-Line –
Floroclear, Spectrex, more
Seaguar
Ande –
Premium, Tournament
Yozuri
IZOR Line
Private label lines, ie Cabelas, others
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